Blocked pores, dull skin, uneven skin, blackheads and
whiteheads...all signs of congested skin and often affecting not just
teenagers, but adults too. Also knows as open comedomes, blackheads are
literally tiny plugs in the opening of a follicle or pore on the skin.
The pore plug is a combination of oils, sebum and dead skin cells. Open
to the skin's surface, the plug becomes darkened as it is exposed to
oxygen. Whiteheads are closed at the skin's surface, blocked by cellular
debris but not exposed to oxygen so remain light in colour.
Blackheads,
whiteheads and blocked pores are usually caused by a combination of
factors. Excess skin oil, sebum and toxins that are expelled through the
skin are often an underlying issue. In addition dead skin cells,
pollution, occlusive make up and dirt also play a role by filling up
pores already opened by sebum and oil production. Each factor will
contribute to congestion in a different but significant way:
Skin
Oil & Sebum: excess oil and sebum production by the skin will
contribute to clogging pores and encourage the growth of skin bacteria.
When combined with external factors such as dirt, blackheads easily
form.
Toxic Congestion: blood and lymph supply the skin with nutrition. However, if the toxins that are produced in our bodies everyday are not eliminated properly, they are eliminated via the skin and can contribute to congestion as well as other issues such as acne and skin irritation.
Toxic Congestion: blood and lymph supply the skin with nutrition. However, if the toxins that are produced in our bodies everyday are not eliminated properly, they are eliminated via the skin and can contribute to congestion as well as other issues such as acne and skin irritation.
Dead
Skin Cells: Each 3 or 4 weeks the skin replenishes the skin cells. This
natural process creates a layer of dead skin cells over the surface of
the skin. If not removed, the dead skin cells create dull looking skin.
The other thing that may happen is that the dead cells will plug the
pores on your face and create congestion and blackheads. When combined
with excessive sebum production, this can lead to the formation of
white-heads and black heads.
Skin Care & Make Up: The key
culprits in skin congestion are products that contain petrochemical
based oils as they have an occulusive effect, stopping the skin from
breathing and blocking pores. Talc, which is common in make up and
finishing powder, also has this effect. Waxes and butters may also be an
issue with skin prone to congestion. Make up is usually worn on a daily
basis so it is essential to choose a make up that suits your skin type
and doesn't contribute to further congestion.
Pollution &
Dirt: Building up on the surface of skin over the day, pollution is a
factor in the formation of blackheads and blocked pores. The more
polluted the area in which you live, the more skin pollution you are
likely to experience. Effective skin cleansing is vital to clean the
skin of daily dirt and grime...and a splash of water at the end of the
day just doesn't cut it. Dirt that is found on our face and other parts
of the body can be a breeding ground for bacteria and combined with oily
skin can make things even worse. Where does the dirt come from? Dirty
hands are a key culprit and those already conscious of their skin tend
to pick and rub their skin more than others, just making the problem
worse.
Treatment of of Blackheads
So, how to get rid of
blackheads and congested skin? Well squeezing them out is not the
answer. This technique will just lead to further skin irritation and
possibly damage and scarring to the surrounding tissue. Rather than
removing blackheads by squeezing, the best way to get rid of them is by
attacking the source of the problem.
1. A good cleansing routine:
Cleansing the skin of daily dirt, grime and pollution is essential. A
good cleansing routine is a very effective way to remove blackheads, as
it will help wash away excess oil and dead skin particles. Use a gentle
cleanser as harsh and overly-drying cleansers will only make the problem
worse by causing an increase in sebum production. If your skin feels
squeaky clean, dry and tight after washing, you are doing more harm than
good and need to use a more gentle cleanser. Avoid products with Sodium
laurel sulphate as this ingredient tends to disrupt the acid mantle
again causing increased sebum production.
2. Regular gentle exfoliation:
one way to minimise congestion and clogged pores is to ensure the top
layer skin remains clear by regularly removing the dead skin cells.
There are a number of very effective products you can use to remove dead
skin cells.
Regular use of facial exfoliants or scrubs will help
clear dead skin cells that block pores. Removing the top layer of dead
cells will also allow your moisturiser or serum work more effectively as
it comes into contact with live skin cells rather than dead ones.
There
are a couple of things to look for in a good exfoliant. The most
obvious, although it is surprising how many people ignore this, is that a
body scrub is too harsh to be used as a facial scrub. Look for a very
fine, soft exfoliant as your facial skin is soft and delicate. A harsh
scrub may actually scour the surface of your skin much like a scrubbing
brush and this can actually damage skin cells. If your skin is
excessively red or inflamed after use they are far too strong. Gentle
exfoliants will slough off cells without a harsh scrubbing effect and
are suitable to be used 2-3 times a week.
3. Fruit Enzyme Peels:
enzyme peels are another way of clearing dead skin cells. They work as a
result of their ability to break the bonds between dead skin cells that
form at the surface of the skin. Skin normally has a dead layer of
cells at its surface (the corneocyte layer), and fruit enzymes can speed
up the normal process of skin cell regeneration and sloughing. This
results in increased flexibility of the skin as well as decreased
formation of large dry skin flakes at the surface of the skin.
Pumpkin,
pineapple and pawpaw provide natural, gentle enzyme proteases that
loosen the glue between dead skin cells, slough away impurities, dead
skin cells and unplug the pores while delivering nutrition to the skin.
This leaves the skin cleansed and silky smooth and reduces the
likelihood of blackheads. Fruit enzyme 'peels' only need to be used once
or twice a week for good effect.
4. Light Moisturisers: moisturisers
that use waxes, butters and petrochemical oils will be more likely to
contribute to congestion in skin that is prone to blackheads. Please
note that waxes and butters are perfectly suitable and definitely
beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin but for those with
congested skin, choose lotions rather than rich creams. If you have
combination skin and suffer from congestion as well as dry skin, use oil
based serums or hyaluronic acid to increase moisture content in the
skin without contributing to further blockage.
5. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid
in high concentrations are common recommendations for skin congestion
and while they might be effective in the short term they can cause
significant problems and can be counter-productive to softening and
dissolving blackheads as they can dehydrate dry, normal and combination
skin. In addition, those with a history of use of high concentration
glycolic acid can suffer redness and irritation at a later date when
exposed to even mildly acidic ingredients such as ascorbic acid. If you
choose to use such products, firstly use them in consultation with a
skin specialist, use low concentrations, use them short term only and
watch for signs of skin dehydration.
6. Make Up: Mineral
make up is an ideal alternative for those with congested skin. Rather
than sinking into or filling pores, the particles of pigment sit on the
surface of the skin allowing the skin to breathe properly. This helps
minimise congestion and eventually, allows the pores to shrink.
7. Dietary & Lifestyle tips: Plenty
of water will help flush toxins out of your system and regular and
regular exercise will keep your lymphatic system flowing. Together both
these factors will help reduce the level of toxins being eliminated via
the skin.
Research conducted at RMIT University, Melbourne, has
shown that a low glycemic index (GI), moderate protein diet improved
symptoms of acne including the number of facial lesions. The diet
consisted of 25% of energy from protein and 45% of energy from low GI
carbohydrates such as fruit and vegetables, grains and pulses. While
this research was conducted on patients with acne, there are strong
correlations between high GI diets and skin congestion as well.
Generally a high GI diet is associated with a greater degree of systemic
body toxicity and inflammation and those prone to skin conditions are
likely to eliminate toxins through the skin more readily.
A diet
high in vegetables, fruit, good fats, lean protein, nuts & seeds is
ideal for the skin as it contains lots of vitamins, minerals and
antioxidants that support skin health.
Following the steps above will not only help you minimise congestion but will also encourage clear, vibrant skin in general.
